Monthly Archives: July 2008

Shout out from Detroit

Sandra Silfven, who has been writing about east-of-the-Rockies wine for nearly 25 years, gave the Long Island wine industry some space in her column in the Detroit News this week. She mentions Jim Trezise, executive director of the New York Wine and Grape Foundation, and the upcoming symposium “The Art of Balance: Cool Climate/Maritime Wines in a Global Context,” which will take place at Southampton College of Stony Brook University next week. I’ve bought my ticket and look forward to an interesting two days.


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Filed under In the news, The Local Cellars

Mucho airén

Cool packaging is one way this company is trying to breathe new life to airén, the most planted grape variety in Spain. Pronounced eye-ren, this wine, from Second Story Selections, smelled faintly like honeysuckle, was crisp and fresh with a lime peel finish. It was long on the palate and a light lemon color. Not fancy, not complex, good summer drinking wine that should be on the shelf for $9.99. Continue reading

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Dropping fruit

The last week of July will be remembered as the week of the big thunder/lightening storm. On Sunday it rained and thunder cracked just outside the house for a good hour and a half. My mother, who lives in Quogue on the south shore, said she got some hail.

Not here though (that would be bad.) The sun is back and vineyards workers at Bedell Cellars are busy pulling leaves and dropping fruit on the reds.

Donna Rudolph, assistant vineyards manager, says the winery has 10 workers out and figures they can clear the fruit zone of about two acres per day. Continue reading

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Filed under Vintage Watch

One flight up

Second Story Selections bills itself as a boutique importer/distributor of “wines with the energy, depth and complexity that might come from artisanal practices such as organic/sustainable viticulture, small hands-on production and uncompromising commitment to balanced aroma and structure.”

Wines that “might come from …”? Second story’s portfolio makes a point of indicating which wines come from “sustainable” vineyards. This, however, is a term of art rather than science. Continue reading

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What’s open now

Castello di Porcia 2006 Traminer Aromatico

Traminer aromatico is another name for gewurztraminer. This wine is from the Friuli Venizia Guila region of Italy, in the north east corner of the boot, kind of behind the knee. According to the Oxford Companion to Wine, the grape’s origins are from a neighboring region, Alto Adige, around the village of Tramin. This grape, first noticed circa 1000 AD, was a pale comparison of the heady, perfumed gewurztraminer we know today. It also has as a parent, pinot. Tasting note after the jump. Continue reading

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The Roggis were in on Friday night and brought with them some of the most delicious California chardonnay. The couple has an extensive collection of California wines and relationships with a lot of the winemakers. I’m now kicking myself because I didn’t write down the vintage of the DuMOL. If I remember correctly it was a 2004. Continue reading

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Filed under Frisky Business, Tasted on


Michael Feuerstein’s in town. Zooming around in his white Mini Cooper and Rambo-red crocs. This time he showed up with — guess what? — Burgundy, the only wine he believes has the mid-palate essential to well-made wine.

He brought two wines from a new-to-me producer, Devevey. We tasted the 2005 Borgogne blanc and the 2006 Volnay. Both are made from purchased grapes. Devevey also has its own vineyards.

The blanc is a good value, and should retail for around $25. It has a fresh meaty nose of red apple, and I wrote it was crisp meaty and minerally on the palate.

The Volnay is a $50 bottle of wine and I found faint culinary herbs behind a red cherry nose. with fine grippy tannins and a long finish.

Also in the group was the Sylvain Pataille 2005 Passetoutgrain. Which should retail for about $20. Continue reading

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