The Roggis were in on Friday night and brought with them some of the most delicious California chardonnay. The couple has an extensive collection of California wines and relationships with a lot of the winemakers. I’m now kicking myself because I didn’t write down the vintage of the DuMOL. If I remember correctly it was a 2004.And it was light yet meaty, juicy yet minerally and long and delicious. I loved it; however, like most wine I taste, I don’t get to sit down and drink it, and I had some competition from Dennis, who liked the wine as much as I did. He managed to finish what the Roggis left for us.

The Kosta Browne, which I also tasted standing up in a busy restaurant, had a nose that reminded me of Beaujolais. More directly, it reminded me of wine made using carbonic maceration.

The entry on carbonic maceration in the Oxford Companion to Wine is long. It begins:

red wine-making process which transforms a small amount of sugar in grapes which are uncrushed to ethanol, without the intervention of yeasts. It is used typically to produce light-bodied, brightly coloured, fruity red wines for early consumption, most famously but by no means exclusively in the Beaujolais region of France.

The technique is to leave, the almost exclusively, red grapes whole in a fermentation tank until they start to ferment from the inside. The result is a wine that some say smells like bubble gum or bananas.

Mrs. Roggi agreed with me. She and I have similar noses, much to her husband’s frustration. Once she told him she thought a wine was oxidized. They called me over, asked me to taste it and I said it smelled a little oxidized.

It was a Click and Clack moment.


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