Michael Feuerstein’s in town. Zooming around in his white Mini Cooper and Rambo-red crocs. This time he showed up with — guess what? — Burgundy, the only wine he believes has the mid-palate essential to well-made wine.

He brought two wines from a new-to-me producer, Devevey. We tasted the 2005 Borgogne blanc and the 2006 Volnay. Both are made from purchased grapes. Devevey also has its own vineyards.

The blanc is a good value, and should retail for around $25. It has a fresh meaty nose of red apple, and I wrote it was crisp meaty and minerally on the palate.

The Volnay is a $50 bottle of wine and I found faint culinary herbs behind a red cherry nose. with fine grippy tannins and a long finish.

Also in the group was the Sylvain Pataille 2005 Passetoutgrain. Which should retail for about $20.

This wine was a great value. Made from vines planted in 1932, said Michael, it had some brett on the nose, but it was cough-drop red cherry smelling and juicy with medium + acid and a long finish.

What’s passetoutgrains?

From the OCW:

red thirst-quencher from Burgundy made from Pinot Noir (minimum one-third) and Gamay grapes. Often deep in colour and rather savagely animal when young, Passetoutgrains with age can attain greater refinement as the Pinot Noir flavours start to dominate. The best examples come from vineyards in the Côte d’Or lying in the plain beyond the main RN74 road which divides the finer vineyards from the generic. Almost two-thirds as much of this appellation is made each year as Bourgogne Rouge but relatively little leaves the region.


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