Category Archives: Frisky Business

Gifts of rosé

The Frisky Oyster’s generous corkage policy is bringing in a range of wines for me to taste. This weekend I was able to sample the 2000 Carruades de Lafite, a second label from the Paulliac producer that focuses on merlot. (It was still ruby, young and juicy with that Paulliac austerity.) And some great wines that merit their own post.

Lower-end, drink-now wines are just as welcome, and this weekend I got to try two roses, one from a new customer with an obviously deep cellar and a love for California wines. The other from Virginie from the Cercle Rouge restaurant in New York. Both wines are 2007 and from the Cotes de Provence. Continue reading


1 Comment

Filed under Frisky Business

High season

Last night was winery night at the The Frisky Oyster as sweetheart Joe Macari Sr. was in drinking his usual, the 2004 Macari Bergen Road; Miguel Martin, winemaker at Palmer Vineyards, was there and got my last bottle of 2005 Ferrer-Bobet Priorat (he went to school in Spain with either Ferrer or Bobet); David Page of Shinn Estate was there with my favorite wine customer Mike Malter. Page had a bottle of his 2002 Six Barrel red, which Dennis tossed out before I got a chance to taste. And Chiara Edmands of Onabay was in with their newly bottled 2007 sparkling and a 2006 red , which was also tossed. The sparkling was not yet labeled, but was definitely chardonnay-based and lively and fresh. (I wish I took a picture of it.)

The 2004 Bergen Road won a double gold at the New York Wine and Food Classic, which means the voting was unanimous.

Also on Malter’s table was a 2005 white burgundy and 1992 Diamond Creek Gravelly Creek Vineyard, which I got a sip of amid a busy night that shows the rest of the summer is going to be like, well, Labor Day Weekend, which is next weekend.

Someday soon I’m going to sit down and drink some wine, rather than standing up and spitting it.


Filed under Frisky Business, The Local Cellars

White Fortress

A new wine came in this week from Steven Plant at David Bowler wines, the 1998 La Bastide Blance Longue Garde Bandol. Unlike the 11 year old Brunello we had last week, this 10-year-old wine still had fruit left. It had a dusty black berry nose with tobacco, tea leaves and a little tar. It was just below full bodied, with a little fine sediment and ripe mature tannins. It wasn’t quite juicy, but not dried out with leather, and mineral on the palate. No oxidation. Here’s what Bowler has to say about the wines they had available (evidently I got one of the last three cases in the country): Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Frisky Business

BYOB Brunello

Dave and Alice Roggi were in on Friday, 7:45 p.m., table 30, and they brought a 1997 Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montallcino. I liked the way it was drinking. It had great secondary aromas and flavors — almost syrah-like on the nose — and the body and tannins had developed into that delicious old wine softness. Dennis and the Roggis thought it had lost some of its fruit, but after 11 years, what do you expect?

I visited Tuscany in the spring of 2008, when all anyone was talking about was the vintage of the century. I am unfamiliar with this producer and whether he was one of those who was discovered blending in unauthorized grapes, which caused the Brunello scandal earlier in the summer. Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Frisky Business


The Roggis were in on Friday night and brought with them some of the most delicious California chardonnay. The couple has an extensive collection of California wines and relationships with a lot of the winemakers. I’m now kicking myself because I didn’t write down the vintage of the DuMOL. If I remember correctly it was a 2004. Continue reading

Leave a comment

Filed under Frisky Business, Tasted on

Guerrilla dining

Last night Matthew Boudreau, the executive chef at the Ram’s Head Inn on Ram’s Head Island on Shelter Island, was taking a busman’s holiday. He was in the restaurant with three friends at the end of a two-day experiment in guerrilla dining. As far as I understand it, the group hit up as many as three restaurants each night ordering bottles of Champagne and appetizers.

At the Frisky, they got my second-to-last bottle of Agrapart & Fils “Les 7 Crus.” That link is in French. More info on the wine from the importer’s website. Continue reading


Filed under Frisky Business, Tasted on

Fine old wine

Wine collector and sharer Michael Malter was back in the restaurant Saturday night and brought a magnum of 1995 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. It was great, aged but not old. I decanted it for him and it had a small bit of very fine sediment. It was really soft with warm secondary flavors of leather and the medium body of Bordeaux with a long finish. Great food wine. Thanks again Michael.

Leave a comment

Filed under Frisky Business