Ted Ryder, owner of the Huntington institution Seaholm Liquors, was in the restaurant last week with his wife and Charles and Ursula Massoud, owners of Paumanok Vineyards in Aquebogue.
Where Ted dines, one can be sure to find good wines. For the meal he brought a 2000 Mas Doix Costers de Vinyes Velles, a Priorat.
This wine, complex and fruity, minerally yet powerful, is a Parker favorite. The 2000 was not rated but the following vintages, as Ted pointed out, all received scores in the high 90s. (The ’01 through ’05 got 98s.)
Pronounced “doysche” the ’01 was made with 45 percent grenache, 50 percent carignan and five percent merlot.
The slatey soil of the Priorat is what the Spanish call licorella, which does not have an entry in the Oxford Companion to Wine! In the Priorat entry, the soil is referred to as llicorella and described as a mixture of slate and quartz. The hot climate and old vines of the region, most planted on steep slopes that prohibit mechanical harvesting, produce super ripe grapes that can reach high alcohol content. The 2000 Mas Doix is 15 percent. In order to qualify for the Priorat DO, the wines must be at least 13.5 percent.